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Nepal / Mt. Kailash Itinerary

After Julian arrives in Kathmandu on August 30, the three of us will fly to Simikot in the northwest corner of Nepal. David and Julian then begin a three-week trek to western Tibet, including a hike around Mt. Kailash, a mountain sacred to people of Hindu, Buddhist and Bon religions. We are working with Adventure Thirdpole Treks & Expeditions of Kathmandu. This part of our trip is a variation of their "Mt. Kailash via Simikot" trek.
 
Below is our itinerary:
 

Fri 28 Aug

David and Cynthia fly from Lhasa to Kathmandu; Julian leaves Seattle

Air China #407 Lhasa (LXA) Lv 10:40 am to Kathmandu (KTM) Arr 9:45 am; Julian leaves Seattle 7:00 pm, Alaska Airlines #AS478; Depart LAX 11:10 pm Thai Airways #TG795

Sat 29 Aug

Kathmandu

 

Sun 30 Aug

Kathmandu

Julian arrives Bangkok 6:40 am

Depart BKK Thai Airways #TG319

Arrives Kathmandu 12:45 pm

Mon 31 Aug

Kathmandu

Get Tibet permits at Chinese consulate.

Tue 1 Sep

Fly to Nepalgunj

Begin trek with Thirdpole Treks.  Kathmandu - Nepalgunj by flight / Lunch, dinner and accommodation

Fly to Nepalgunj and transfer to your hotel. Nepalgunj lies in the sub-tropical lowlands of the Terai boarding India.

Wed 2 Sep

Fly to Simikot

Three of us fly from Nepalgunj to Simikot.  Nepalgunj - Simikot by flight and commence trekking for 4 hrs to Dharapa – BLD

Fly to Simikot (2910m, 9545ft).  The flight takes about 50mins and offers some fantastic views of Himalayan peaks. The landing at the tiny mountain airstrip at Simikot is an unforgettable experience.

Thu 3 Sep

Dharapari

David and Julian begin walking to Dharapa and beyond. Cynthia stays in Simikot.  Begin trek and there is an initial climb above Simikot before descending towards the village of Tuling (3hrs trek) by following a leveled trail through walnut and apricot trees to the village of Dharapari. Stay overnight with tented camp in Dharapari (2250m, 7380ft).

Fri 4 Sep

Kermi

Continue trek to Kermi (2682m, 8797ft) (5 hrs trek) Overnight Camp - – BLD

Following the  Humla Karnali basin we trek through rice and wheat fields to a point where the valley narrows and the river is choked with large boulders. According to the legend, these represent silver fish that swam up from the Ganges and could make it no further. Above this point rice is not grown.  We then trek through small fields of buckwheat and open pine woodland. Towering above the surging waters of the Humla Karnali are snow capped peaks and a series of gentle waterfalls that provide ideal shower facilities!

Sat 5 Sep

Yalbang Gompa

Continue trek to Yalbang Gompa (2950m, 9676ft). (6 hrs trek) Overnight Camp - BLD

Today we cross our first pass, the Soli La (2990m, 9807ft), and descend to cross the Soli Khola on a sturdy suspension bridge built in 1995. Our trail climbs above the Humla Karnali basin to the Gompa at Yalbang that makes an excellent campsite. The views here are simply studding and the friendly monks speak excellent English.

Sun 6 Sep

Muchu

Trek to Tumkot Khola (2800m, 9184ft) and then to Muchu (6 ½ hrs trek). Overnight Camp - BLD

The trail continues, at times close to the river, on a path that is built up with rocks and timber. We cross the Humla Karnali and climb gradually to Muchu (2920m, 9578ft) where there is a police check post. The trail passes below the Gompa and stone houses of the village before gently descending to our camp by the river.

Mon 7 Sep

Yari

Trek to Thado Dunga (3854m, 12,641ft) and then to Yari (5 ½ hrs trek). Overnight Camp - BLD

After crossing the Tumkot Khola we leave the Humla Karnali behind and will meet it again in two days time. A two hour climb brings us to a ridge crest at 3310m, 10957ft marked by a large cairn. We continue through open juniper woodland past Palbang to the village of Yari where there is a small shop and a school. For about half an hour beyond of Yari there is a nice camping place in an area of small meadows known as Dzungjen. As an aid to acclimatization, we can climb one of the ridges above Dzungjen for some excellent mountain views of the Saipal Himal.

Tue 8 Sep

Taklakot

Julian and David reach Sher and meet Land Cruiser for drive to Talakot.  Trek to Hilsa (3720m, 12,202ft), meet the group at Sher border and drive on to Purang (3780m, 12,398ft) / Taklakot (50kms, 2hrs drive). Stay overnight at Guest House or Camp - BLD

The high pass of the Nara Lagna (4580m, 15,022ft) is reached after a 3 1/2 to 4 hours climb. The summit is marked by two large cairns draped with prayer flags. Below, we can look into Tibet where the arid hillsides are a stark contrast to the greenery of the Humla region we have recently trekked through. It looks a long way down to Sher border, where passports and day sacks will be inspected. At Sher we meet our Tibetan guide and board our land cruisers for the two hour’s drive to Purang, (Taklakot) at 3930m, 12,890ft. It is a rough fantastic drive that gives a taste of what lies ahead. The descent is steep and looses in places as the trail crosses screen and debris slopes. We may meet traders with large herds of sheep and goats. Each animal carries saddlebags loaded with rice from the Terai which is bound for Tibet, or if traveling in the opposite direction loads of salt bound for Nepal.

Wed 9 Sep

Lake Mansarovar

Lake Mansarovar (4558m, 14,950ft) (90kms, 3hrs) Camp or guest house for overnight stay- BLD

 

Today we will explore the highest lake of fresh water with turquoise complexion which is full of fishes and swans. Holy Kailash Parbat, Mt. Gurula-Mandala at 4590m, 15,055ft (from where we get our first glimpse of Mt Kailas or Gang Rimpoche in Tibetan, (meaning ‘Precious Jewel of Snow’), Lake Rashekshi (the dark waters of Rakshas Tal can be whipped up by the afternoon winds and dust devils dance along the shoreline) are lying on its surrounding. The region is considered rich for gold and other mines, hot springs and hundreds of wild  creatures. We cross the dividing ridge between the lakes to camp at Chiu Gompa on the shores of Mansarovar, looking out at the Sacred Mountain. The sunset views from our camp are spectacular and many pilgrims come to this spot to bathe and camp before beginning their Kora. Below the Gompa there is a small hot spring and tea shop where it is possible to wash the dirt of the trail from our clothes and bodies. Night will be spent at Chu Gumba. - BLD

Thu 10 Sep

Lake Mansarovar

Rest day for acclimatize- BLD We spend the morning here to aid acclimatization. We can explore the meditation caves along the lake shore and bathe in the sacred waters. Chiu Gompa is situated on a craggy cliff overlooking the lake and has commanding views over the plain to Mt Kailash. Inside it there is a small Guru Rinpoche cave that forms the most sacred part of the Gompa.

Fri 11 Sep

Darchen

Drive to Darchen (4580m, 15,022ft) (30kms - 1hr). Overnight at Guesthouse or camp – BLD Drive to Darboche or Serchung (4750m, 15,580ft) from where it is a short (11/2 to 2 hours) drive to Darchen.  Darchen is considered as a base camp for the Holy Kailash Parikrama, a cluster of buildings within a walled compound that marks the pilgrim’s gateway to Mt Kailash. Outside the compound is an area dotted with the tents of pilgrims and nomadic traders. Whilst our yaks are loaded and arrangements are made for the Kora we may be able to hike to Selung monastery above Darchen. 

 

In the late afternoon we will begin our Kora and follow an easy trail that contours the hillside above the Bharka plain. Nomad tents and their trucks dot the open landscape and are dwarfed by the sheer vastness of it all. A cairn and prayer flags at 4730m, 15,514ft marks the first of the prostration stations or chaktsal-gang on the Kora. Darboche is a lovely camping area at 4750m, 15,580ft in the Lha Chu valley with terrific views of the south face of Mt Kailash. There is a large flagpole here which is the focus of a colorful festival in May that marks the Saga Dawa or the birth of the Buddha.

Sat 12 Sep

Dri Ra Phuk Gompa

Julian and David begin trek around Mt. Kailash. Start trek. 14kms, 7 to 8hrs Camp Dri Ra Phuk Gompa (5010m, 16,433ft)

Today we head north up the Lha Chu Valley and enter the ‘Valley of the Gods’ through the ‘two legged chorten’ known as Chorten Kangnyi. It is a gentle walk on a well defined path that remains on the right bank of the river. The towering cliffs each have a name and are believed to be the abode of supernatural protectors. There are many nomads herding yak and sheep to grazing areas west of the mountain. We cross the Lha Chu to camp below Dri Ra Phuk Gompa at 5010m, 16,433ft. The views of Kailas’ north face are particularly impressive from above the Gompa.

Sun 13 Sep

Dri Ra Phuk Gompa

Dri Ra Phuk Gompa 5010m. We will spend an extra night here as valuable acclimatization before tackling the Dolma La at 5636m, 18,486ft. An excellent excursion to the base of the sheer icy face of Mt Kailas that is framed between two hills and can be seen from our campsite. It involves a climb over loose glacial gravel to the ice towers at the mountains’ base. It makes a round trip of 3 to 4 hrs and is well worth the effort.

Mon 14 Sep

Zutul Phuk Gompa

Climb and cross the Dolma La 5636m and trek down to Zutul Phuk Gompa (4820m, 15,810ft) Hardest but Holiest day of your pilgrimage Yatra with Dolma-La (pass) of 18600ft between two valleys: Yamasthal should be crossed to reach the Shiva-sthal while your steps go closer to the pass. Once you reach the top, just do the holiest offering and sit down for meditation to forget yourself.

 

The day begins with a steep climb on a winding path over a moraine ridge to a level meadow area. To the south we can see a pass that provides an alternative Kora around Kailas which can only be followed by those who have already completed twelve circumambulations. Our route climbs to the Shiwa Tsal cemetery where Tibetans leave part of their clothing or a drop of blood to symbolize leaving part of their past life behind them. We may see lamas chanting prayers over the prostrate bodies of pilgrims in a ritual to aid their spirits’ journey after death. 

 

It is a slow steady climb to the Dolma La which is marked by streamers of prayer flags and the huge Dolma Stone that represents the goddess Dolma. Pilgrims will press their foreheads against the stone and money is pasted to the rock with yak butter. This is the spiritual and physical high point of the kora which can also be a cold and forbidding place. The trail descends by a series of rocky switchbacks above the frozen waters of the holy lake of Gourikund to reach the valley of the Zhong Chu. We follow the river to camp in the vicinity of Zutul Phuk Gompa at 4820m, 15,810ft after 6 to 8 hrs of walking. Today is a truly memorable day. Once your steps go down, Parvati-stal and Gauri Kunda are on the way. By the late afternoon you will arrive at Zuthal Puk (the cave of Miracles. The great ascetic Milerappa is supposed to have performed miracles here).

Tue 15 Sep

Lake Mansarovar

Complete the trek after 15kms / 03 to 04 hrs, northern tip of Lake Mansarovar at 4550m 14,924ft. Today is your final day on the kora (circuit) is an easy three hours walking as we exit the Zhong Chu Valley on a trail that contours high above a narrow gorge. The hills become less vegetated and more desert like as we approach the Bharka Plain with seemingly limitless views towards the Indian Himalaya. At one point pilgrims stop and scoop out of the hillside the precious white clay called Ghang Rimpoche ku-sha or the flesh of Kailas. It is believed to have medicinal properties and is spread on foreheads to ease headaches and colds. There is no need to linger at Darchen and we can begin the drive across the Tibetan plateau to camp by the northern tip of Lake Mansarovar.

Wed 16 Sep

Paryang

Drive to Paryang (4050m, 13,284ft). (292 km / 08 to 09 hrs) Camp or guest house

The road is rough and there are some rivers to cross. Wild antelope and kiang (the Tibetan wild ass) are a common sight. This is the land of the drogpa nomads and you will pass many encampments with large herds of sheep and goats. The drives are long, bumpy and often dusty but the scenery is magnificent. Photo stops are a must!

Thu 17 Sep

Saga

Drive to Saga (4600m, 15,088ft)

Fri 18 Sep

Nyalam

Drive to Nyalam (3750m, 12,300ft) 240km (6-7 hrs) Guest house.

Sat 19 Sep

Kathmandu

Drive downhill to Friendship Bridge and back to Kathmandu.  Complete tour with Thirdpole Treks. Stay at Manaslu Hotel

Sun 20 Sep

Kathmandu

Manaslu Hotel; Julian flies back to Seattle

Depart KTM 1:50 pm Thai Airways #TG320 to Bangkok

Depart BKK 7:20 pm Thai Airways #TG794 to LAX

Arrive LAX 9:25 pm

Mon 21 Sep

Depart for Bhutan 

Julian arrives in Seattle

Depart LAX 6:30 am Alaska Airlines #AS477

Arrive SEA 9:10 am Seattle